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By Debojyoti Das

Diamond Harbour was developed by the British East India Company and later by the Empire for its imperial shipping and trade from Kolkata. The region is part of the active Sundarban delta at the mouth of the Hoogly River. Like Diamond the British also developed Caning port in the Sundarbans over the Matla river. Lord Canning’s dream to develop Canning as a port faded as the port suffered from siltation and rise in riverbed in the years after the plan was approved. The last railhead in Canning remains a strong reminder of colonial railway infrastructure at the heart of the Sundarbans, developed to link the hinterland with Kolkata and beyond.

The failure of the Canning Port is testament to the active nature of the Sundarban delta, where silt deposition and erosion constantly changes the landscape with the constant emergence of new islands and the destruction of existing ones.

Diamond Harbour, unlike Canning, is a municipality, initially developed by the British as a fishing and trading port. Today the lighthouse and fort built by the imperial government lie in ruins due to the caving in of the river. The Jetty Ghats are constantly being shifted due to the siltation of the river Hooghly. The phenomenon shapes the whole region. Kolkata’s port has now moved to Haldia, and with siltation in that area there are plans to shift the port further seaward. The construction of the Farrakhan barrage over the Ganges in West Bengal has not helped ships to enter the Kolkata port with progressive siltation of the Hooghly riverbed. This presents a good reminder as how dynamic the active delta of the Bay of Bengal plays its role in shaping river transport.

The Sundarbans are constantly evolving as a littoral landscape with the formation of islands, creeks and active siltation and deposition at riverbanks and islands. The shattered lighthouse and the ruins of the fort present evidence of the changing nature of water bodies and the landmass at the mouth of the world’s largest delta.

By Debojyoti Das

The Sundarban delta is today fragmented by political boundaries between India and Bangladesh. In undivided Bengal this landscape was the transit route for the flow of goods, ideas and people across the maritime passageways to Bengal plains, Brahmaputra Valley and the foothills of the Himalayas. Soon after partition, refugees moved into the West Bengal borderlands. Both in 1947 and 1971 there was an exodus of Hindus from Bangladesh and Muslims from India.

The arrival of new Bengali immigrants had put pressure on land resources in the Sundarbans and opened up new opportunities of trade, business and employment.

Most of the people who migrated to the Sundarbans belong to the lower caste Namasudras and Pandro Katriyas and are predominantly fisherfolk. Estuary and deep-sea fishing in Bengal gained momentum in the late 1970s with the arrival of Bengal Hindus from Khulna, Jassore, Barisal and Chittagong. These men and women are expert seafarers and their livelihoods depend on marine resources.

During my interviews with fishermen in Kak Dwip I discovered that the fishing industry has transformed the coastal economy of the Sundarbans, triggering a rise in land and commodity prices. The development in Kak Dwip can be assessed from the number of trawlers and fishing nets, which have increased since the late 1970s. The unsustainable growth of fishing has led to the decline of Hilsa and its depletion in the Ganges.

The Aila cyclone of 2009 led to complete destruction of the islands, as salt water swept through the agricultural fields and settlements salinizing the soil. Since 2009, double cropping has stopped and salt water percolation has destroyed every single cash crop grown during the pre-monsoon season. The post Aila period saw new trend in migration: from the village to the city and to the rest of India.  The loss of livelihood led people to migrate to Chennai, Gujarat, and Delhi where they engaged themselves as manual labourers, factory workers, daily wage earners in construction sites and industries. While some families have improved their lot through out-migration, the majority live precarious lives.

Over time, Sundarbans people have adapted to the harsh environment through sheer hard labour and a will to survive. Aila, though devastating, is not an exceptional experience. This hybrid landscape has witnessed many changes and people have adapted over time to these life-churning events.

Check out Bangladeshi photographer Ismail Ferdous’s images of the effects of recent cyclones on the land and its people.

By Sunil Amrith

I have been working through the fascinating archives of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company at the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich. Among the company reports and other miscellaneous items are many details about the company—which tells us something about history of steam power in South Asia, and about the Irrawaddy River itself.

The Company’s grand headquarters now house the Myanmar Port Authority. The building still dominates Yangon’s skyline; though it is unclear how long that will remain the case, given the construction boom that appears to be underway in the city.

The Irrawaddy Flotilla Company was formed in 1865, owned by the brothers Henderson, originally from the village of Pittenween in Fifeshire, Scotland. The family’s fortunes rose from the initial misfortune of George Henderson, shipwrecked while commanding a sailing vessel “trading to the near east.” He survived the ordeal, and installed himself in Italy, where he flourished in the marble trade to Britain—the Glasgow end of the business was handled by his three brothers. By the 1850s, the Hendersons had abandoned marble and moved into long-distance shipping: they owned a small fleet that sailed between Scotland, New York and Quebec; at the turn of the 1860s, they were at the “forefront” of the “emigrant trade” to New Zealand. On the return journey from New Zealand, the Hendersons’ vessels began to call at Rangoon, where they took on cargoes of rice and teak. Before long, the Burma rice trade proved so profitable that they abandoned the antipodean leg of the voyage altogether; around the same time, they purchased a small fleet of steam-powered river craft to profit from the Irrawaddy’s flourishing trade.

A promotional booklet of 1872 assured potential investors that “there is no trade to the east more capable of … continuous expansion than that of Burmah.” The Irrawaddy had “its banks studded with towns and villages, crowded with an active, industrious population to whom this river is the great highway.” Until the advent of steam, “the whole traffic on the river was conducted by native boats”—up to twenty-five thousand of them. Now steam power, “by its speed, regularity, and safety, is gradually superseding native craft”; all that was needed was a “sufficient supply of plant to monopolise, in great measure, the traffic.” For two decades, the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company imported its coal directly from Britain; from the 1890s, supplies began to arrive from the coal-fields of Bengal.

* Full references will appear in chapter 4 of my forthcoming book, Crossing the Bay of Bengal: The Furies of Nature and the Fortunes of Migrants (Harvard University Press, 2013)

By Sunil Amrith

This temple is unusual in Malaysia in facing directly out to sea. It was built in the late-nineteenth century by local Tamil fishermen—the story I was told is that many had arrived in Malaya to work on the rubber plantations, but made their way from the mainland to Pangkor to make their living from the sea. It is likely that they originated from coastal districts in Tamil Nadu, quite possibly from fishing communities. Read the rest of this entry »